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Archive of Aperture Posts

From Aperture To Capture One Pro?

5 Mar
8 Comments
Filed Under: Aperture, Opinion, Photography

Aperture LogoCould a user of Aperture since version 1 switch to Capture One Pro version 7.1? That’s the question I set out to answer in some “spare” time over the last few days.

I just love Aperture’s approach to RAW workflow. The interface, the tools, it’s file management and image adjustment all feel just right to me. The “problem” of late is that tech­nologies such as lens correction for distortion and top-notch noise reduction for high ISO images have been lagging behind in Aperture.

Lighroom LogoLet’s not get into the whole issue of whether or not the numerous “point” upgrades to Aperture this past year are equal to what we’ve all been looking for as version 4. I’ll simply say that the Aperture of today has not kept up with its primary competitor, Adobe Lightroom, in some key (at least to me) tech­no­logical areas. Lightroom can make excellent images out of RAW files shot at higher ISO from cameras such as my new Olympus OM-D E-M5 with Olympus zoom lenses.

Those folks shooting the new Fuji X series cameras feel even more left out than I. Aperture can’t even read the x-trans Fuji RAW file format.

But, personally, I just can’t get along with Lightroom’s interface, even though it’s image output is very good. Switching modes (from Library to Develop, for example) feels wrong. Dialog boxes that don’t match the rest of the interface bug me. Not being able to delete files from a collection view makes me crazy. And the list of non-Mac-like interface features goes on.

Capture One LogoBefore I started using Aperture at it’s $499 release, I was using Capture One LE for RAW processing and basic image adjust­ments, the Finder for file management, and Photoshop for greater image adjust­ments. Capture One is well know in the profes­sional image world, partic­u­larly for its ability to handle the files from digital camera backs such as those from Phase One and Leaf. It’s current top-of-the-line is Capture One Pro in version 7.1.

So, could a generally happy Aperture user switch to Capture One Pro to gain access to more current tech­nologies? And if so, would he like it?

Continue reading From Aperture To Capture One Pro?

The Digital Negative for Aperture Users

27 Oct
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Filed Under: Aperture, Photography, Translating Lightroom

Jeff Schewe’s new book, The Digital Negative, was recently released and it’s very good. Jeff knows a tremendous amount about digital post processing and is closely tied to the Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop devel­opment teams. Putting those two things together, Jeff’s book is a wonderful resource for digital photographs using Lightroom and Photoshop (via Adobe Camera RAW or ACR).

But what about the folks who prefer Apple’s Aperture?

Here’s my overview of the chapters, focused on how much value an Aperture user would get out of each.

Chapter 1: What Is A Digital Negative? Good infor­mation for Aperture users.

Chapter 2: Adobe RAW Image Processing an Overview Not helpful for Aperture users.

Chapter 3: Fundamentals Of Lightroom and Camera RAW This is pretty specific to Lightroom and ACR, but Aperture has many of these tools, too.

Chapter 4: Advanced RAW Processing Using Lightroom or Camera RAW Good tech­niques here for Aperture users; just translate specific sliders to Aperture.

Chapter 5: Deploying Photoshop To Perfect Your Digital Negatives Aperture users can “round trip” to Photoshop, too!

Chapter 6: Creating An Efficient Workflow More good infor­mation for Aperture users.

So you’ll see that, other than chapter 2, there’s plenty of good stuff here for digital photog­ra­phers using Aperture. To help with chapters 3 and 4, you might want to look back at some of my older posts in the Translating Lightroom category.

Aperture’s Basic Adjustment Bricks

For an example of this trans­lation, I’ll use the image presented on page 136 of the book to illus­trate a tech­nique for working with images in high-contrast lighting without resorting to High Dynamic Range (HDT) tone mapping. I asked Jeff for permission to use that image in this blog post, but he declined, so maybe you have an image of your own to follow along with.

The first changes Jeff made to his image were to increase Exposure, reduce Contrast, reduce Highlights and lighten Shadows. All of these are tools that exist by the same names in Aperture.

Continue reading The Digital Negative for Aperture Users

Simple Color Management

22 Apr
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Filed Under: Aperture, Lightroom, Photography, Printing

You can make photo­graphic color management compli­cated if you must. But you can get far more than 80% of the way to perfect with a minimum of effort and time. Here’s what I do in order to ensure that my images print (to my Epson 3880) as I see them on my display (Apple 23″ LCD Cinema Display).

The key to a proper photo­graphic color managed workflow is the use of profiles. Each profile “trans­lates” the inter­pre­tation of color for one device into the inter­pre­tation of color on another device. For example, a certain ‘red’ on your display needs to map to the correct ‘red’ on your printer — but the display and the printer “speak” different color “languages.” The profile “translates.”

Don’t Sweat the Camera Profile

Whichever RAW converter you use (you do shoot in RAW format, don’t you?) has color profiles for all of the cameras it supports. The profiles that are part of Lightroom, Adobe Camera Raw (part of Photoshop) and Aperture are all very good. I don’t have any expe­rience with other RAW converters, but I would assume they’re fine, too.

This is the first necessary step — the camera profile trans­lates from the camera’s color “language” to your RAW converter’s color “language.” So just use the profile that comes with your software.

Do Sweat The Display Profile

Here’s the first place that you’re going to have to create your own profile. Each computer display, whether it’s an older CRT, a newer LCD or the newest LED design, is a little different from every other. You may have your’s set a little brighter than another’s. Your’s may be a little older than another’s and so the colors may have drifted from the new display’s starting point. Or some­thing. This profile will “translate” between the color “languages” of your RAW converter and your display.

The ColorMunki Profiling a Display

So you need to create your own display profile for your own display. And you’re going to need some hardware help; hardware that can “see” color in a standard and repeatable way. Two popular devices are the ColorMunki and the Spyder4. There are certainly others — and some are quite a bit more expensive. But there’s no reason these won’t give excellent results. Or even older models of these; think about a Spyder3 from eBay.

Regardless of the device you choose, get one and use its software and hardware to create a profile for your exact display. And be sure you’ve set the lumi­nance (brightness) to some­thing close to 100 cd/m2. If you make your display too bright, your prints will be too dark.

And Do Sweat the Printer Profiles

Printer profiles aren’t hard either, but you need them for many of the same reasons you need a display profile. There’s the different color “language” thing again. And now you have to add in the paper, because each type and brand of paper will reproduce colors differ­ently. The good news is that almost all paper manu­fac­turers offer print profiles for each of their papers tailored for the popular photo printers. Get one of those profiles and you’re going to be golden.

The ColorMunki Creating a Printer Profile

But. If you want to take into account the subtle differ­ences between different indi­vidual printers of the same model, you can create your own printer profiles for each of your paper stocks, too. The more expensive printers (think Epson’s profes­sional series printers) are more consistent in color rendition from indi­vidual printer to indi­vidual printer. Less expensive printers, not as much. Or maybe you don’t have a “popular” photo printer. Or maybe your favorite paper manu­fac­turer doesn’t have a profile for their paper or your printer.

So then you need to create your own profiles. And again you’re going to need hardware such as the ColorMunki (it does double duty for display and print profiles, which is why I have one for my work) or the SpyderPrint.

Needless to say, there are many more detailed ways to do color management and get to 100% perfect. you can spend a good deal of money on more sophis­ti­cated hardware and even training seminars. But I would suggest you give the method discussed here a try first. If you’re not satisfied with the color fidelity of your printed work now, I know you’ll be very happy with the results.

Don’t Use “Print Brightening”

22 Apr
2 Comments
Filed Under: Aperture, Lightroom, Opinion, Photography

Just don’t. It’s a work around for a poorly color managed photo­graphic workflow.

Yes, I know many, many people complain that their prints are too dark when compared to their computer’s display. And I’m sure its true — but it’s not because their printer is doing some­thing wrong. It’s because their displays are too bright. Current LCD and LED flat panel display manu­fac­turers pride them­selves on how bright and vibrant their screens are. For many uses, that’s a good thing. But it’s not a good thing for a properly managed photo­graphic color workflow.

What brings this to mind again is Lightroom 4’s addition of a print adjustment block in the print module. You can use this to brighten or darken the image when printed. The same thing can be done in Aperture (and for some time, now). Matt Kloskowski even has a video posted on his Lightroom Killer Tips blog and he calls the addition “one of my favorite new features for printing that solves the “my print is too dark” problem.”

I respect­fully disagree. The right answer is to properly profile your display with a tool such as the ColorMunki or Spyder4. There are others. If you set your display at a lumi­nance of around 100 cd/m2 you won’t have the “prints too dark” problem in the first place. And you’ll have a more correct view of the rela­tionship between tones in your image as you make adjustments.

Get it right in the camera, then get it right on the display, and then it will be right on your printer (if your color workflow is sound).

Three Stages of Sharpening with Aperture

5 Sep
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Filed Under: Aperture, Translating Lightroom

Laura Shoe created a helpful blog post for Lightroom users in which she discussed Lightroom’s approach to sharp­ening. In many ways, Aperture handles image adjust­ments much like Lightroom, but they do differ a fair amount in how they deal with sharp­ening. This article is intended to “translate” Laura’s discussion for Aperture users. And I’ve written about sharp­ening in Aperture before, so you may want to check that out first.

Laura points out that many follow the advice of Bruce Fraser and Jeff Schewe in their book Real World Image Sharpening and apply sharp­ening in three stages: Capture, Creative and Output. Capture sharp­ening is used to offset the inherent blurring effects of digital capture devices such as cameras and scanners. Creative sharp­ening lets the image adjuster make overall, or more commonly localized, sharp­ening changes. The last step, output sharp­ening, is done at output and should take into account the output medium, the output device, as well as the intended viewing distance.

RAW Fine Tuning Brick

The RAW Fine Tuning Adjustment Brick

Capture Sharpening

These concepts apply equally to any image adjustment software. It is the execution that is different. Let’s start at the beginning of the process with capture sharp­ening. Aperture’s capture sharp­ening is done in the RAW Fine Tuning adjustment brick.

You’ll see the two control sliders. Sharpening (how much of a sharp­ening effect should be applied) and Edges (what in the image should be considered an edge and be sharpened). A setting of 0 Sharpening creates no sharp­ening while a setting of 1 provides the maximum effect. For Edges a setting of 0 means nothing should be considered an edge and 1 means almost every­thing is an edge and should be sharpened.

Something to note here is that Aperture is very gentle in its appli­cation of sharp­ening in general. And this is espe­cially true of RAW Fine Tuning sharp­ening. Its a very subtle effect. Also true is that sharp­ening effects are best viewed at 100%—so use the loupe or the Zoom To Actual Size commend in the View menu.

Because capture sharp­ening is meant to offset the soft­ening effect of the image capture device, one set of sharp­ening para­meters will be “right” for any given device. Aperture lets you set those para­meters as defaults for each device inde­pen­dently by using the Save As Camera Default command under the gear menu of the RAW Fine Tuning adjustment brick.

Creative Sharpening
Edge Sharpen Brick

The Edge Sharpen Adjustment Brick

First a comment. Aperture version 3 offers two adjustment bricks for creative sharp­ening—Edge Sharpen and Sharpen. The Sharpen brick is left over from earlier versions for compat­i­bility, but I advise against using it because the Edge Sharpen brick is so much better and more powerful. Forget there is a Sharpen brick.

The Edge Sharpen brick offers three control sliders. Again there is the Sharpening slider as well as the Edge slider. Both work the same way as the matching sliders do in the RAW Fine Tuning brick. But now there is the added slider for Falloff (the amount of sharp­ening done on the second and third of Aperture’s three pass sharp­ening tech­nique). A setting of 0 Falloff means that no sharp­ening is applied during the second and third sharp­ening passes while a setting of 1 means that 100% of the first pass sharp­ening effect is applied on the second pass and 100% of the amount of the second pass is applied in the third. This is pretty clever because a setting on 0.5 means that 50% of the first pass sharp­ening effect is applied on the second pass and 50% of the amount of the second pass is applied in the third. Said another way, the third pass would use 25% of the first pass effect.

Output Sharpening

Printers and paper will both cause a slight blurring of the image on output . Also, images are meant to be viewed a different distances; you’d rarely expect someone to look at a 30″ x 40″ print up close, but a 3″ x 4″ web image will be seen from just a foot or two. Therefore some sharp­ening is often needed at this stage.

Image Adjustment Brick

The Image Adjustment Brick of the Print Dialog

Aperture has an Image Adjustment brick in the print dialog box to control print sharp­ening. Unfortunately it does not have sharp­ening controls in its export controls.

For printing the sliders change names to Amount (just like the Sharpening slider else­where) and Radius (the distance, in pixels, that Aperture uses to evaluate sharpness). Frankly, it makes no sense to me that the print sharp­ening controls should be named differ­ently and have different effects than in the Edge Sharpen adjustment brick.

Here a setting of 0 for Radius means there will be no sharp­ening while a setting of say, 3 would mean that sharp­ening would be applied up to 3 pixels away from an edge. If you want to judge the sharp­ening effect on screen, use the loupe tool next to the Amount and Radius sliders.

If you want to apply sharp­ening for exporting files formats such as JPEG or PNG, you’ll need to get the free export plug-in BorderFX. It, too, has Amount and Radius sliders.

In General

Sharpening is a very subjective adjustment, and double so for capture and creative sharp­ening. So you’ll have to apply the effects to your own taste an creative vision. But a good thing to remember is that less is often more for sharp­ening. Don’t over do it. And Aperture will help with that as all of its controls, but espe­cially its RAW Fine Tuning sharp­ening, are subtle.

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Who Is Bob Rockefeller?

I’m a pho­tog­ra­pher and a Macintosh user who shoots what catches my eye and tries to remember David duChemin’s credo: “Gear is Good. Vision is Better.” I also dabble in HTML, CSS and WordPress coding. [Read More …]

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